AdewebsThere’s something about a patch of alstroemeria in bloom that feels like a little carnival in the garden. The first time I grew them, I only planted a handful of tubers, not expecting much. By midsummer my flower patch had become a sea of pinks, purples, oranges and yellows dancing in the breeze. I’d been farming vegetables for years, but those flowers taught me a whole new kind of patience and reward. If you’re thinking about adding alstroemeria – or as some folks spell it, alstromeria – to your space, you’re in for a treat.
I know that question on your mind too: do they shed a lot? Nobody wants a messy garden bed or petals dropping all over their paths. The answer is reassuring. Alstroemeria will drop some petals after blooming, but it’s nothing like raking up after a big deciduous tree. It’s light and manageable. That was one of my first surprises, and it made me love them even more.
This guide isn’t coming from a polished garden magazine. It’s me, a farmer who’s knelt in the dirt and figured out what works and what doesn’t. I’ll walk you through planting, feeding, watering, pulling old stems, dividing clumps and harvesting blooms for vases. I’ll share what I’ve learned about pests, about winter care, about keeping your plants from getting tired. By the end you’ll have the know-how to get your own patch of Peruvian lilies thriving.
Understanding Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria, sometimes called Peruvian lily or lily of the Incas, is a perennial grown from fleshy underground rhizomes. The plants send up clusters of leafy stems topped with trumpet-shaped flowers. They’re often sold as cut flowers because they last for ages in a vase. In the garden they’ll come back year after year if you treat them right.
They like mild conditions and a bit of coddling at first. Once established, though, they’re surprisingly tough. The biggest thing is giving them a good start. Healthy roots mean healthy plants. I learned early on that scrimping on soil prep only leads to weak, spindly stems later.
Choosing a Site and Preparing Soil
Pick a sunny spot with light shade in the hottest part of the day. Too much shade and you’ll get tall floppy stems, too much blazing heat and the plants sulk. Good drainage is non-negotiable. If you’ve got heavy clay, work in compost and grit to loosen it up. A raised bed works wonders if your ground stays soggy after rain.
I always mix in plenty of well-rotted compost before planting. Think of it like setting the table before inviting guests. You want the rhizomes to sit in rich, friable soil. That’s the foundation for strong growth and flowers that stand upright instead of leaning over.
Planting Alstroemeria
Plant alstroemeria rhizomes in spring once the soil has warmed a little. Dig holes about 6 inches deep and lay the rhizomes horizontally. Cover them lightly and water well. Space plants about a foot apart. They’ll fill in over time, so don’t cram them too close.
Mulch after planting to keep moisture even and suppress weeds. I use shredded bark or straw. Mulching also helps keep the soil cool around the roots, which alstroemeria appreciate. This is especially handy if you live where summers get hot.
Watering Without Drowning
Alstroemeria like steady moisture but not soggy feet. During the growing season water regularly, especially in dry spells. Stick a finger in the soil; if it’s dry an inch down, it’s time to water. Early on I made the mistake of watering too much, thinking more was better. My plants responded with yellowing leaves. Now I aim for deep but less frequent watering.
Once established, they can handle a short dry spell. But regular moisture leads to more stems and blooms. Drip irrigation or a soaker hose saves time and avoids splashing the leaves.
Feeding for Strong Stems
A balanced fertiliser makes a world of difference. I like to mix a slow-release fertiliser into the soil at planting time, then top up with a liquid feed every few weeks during the season. Something labelled for flowering plants works fine. If you have access to a gentle organic product like natures garden fertiliser, even better.
Avoid heavy doses of nitrogen; that gives you leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Think of it like feeding a child sweets before dinner. A little is fine, too much throws everything off balance.
Deadheading and Pulling Stems
Here’s a neat trick. Instead of cutting faded stems, pull them out from the base with a firm tug. This encourages new shoots from below. Cutting above ground leaves a stub that can rot. I didn’t believe it at first until an older grower showed me. It really does work.
Regular deadheading keeps the display fresh and prolongs blooming. Don’t be shy about harvesting for vases either. The more you pick, the more the plant produces. That’s why commercial growers get such long seasons out of their crops.
Dividing and Replanting
Every few years clumps of alstroemeria get crowded and produce fewer flowers. That’s your cue to lift and divide them. Do this in early spring or after flowering. Dig up the whole clump, gently pull apart the rhizomes and replant them in fresh soil. Water well and they’ll bounce back stronger than ever.
I once left a patch untouched for five years. The plants became a tangled mess with weak stems. After dividing and spreading them into a new bed, they rewarded me with armloads of flowers the next season.
Pests and Problems
Alstroemeria are generally trouble-free, but slugs and snails love the tender young shoots. A ring of grit or organic slug pellets keeps them at bay. Aphids sometimes cluster on stems, but a blast of water or a mild soap spray sorts them out.
Watch for yellowing leaves. This can be a sign of too much water, poor drainage or nutrient deficiency. Adjust your care and the plants usually perk up. Strong, well-fed plants resist problems better than weak ones.
Winter Care
In cold areas, mulch heavily after the first frost to protect the rhizomes. A thick blanket of straw or leaves works well. In very severe climates you can lift the rhizomes and store them in a frost-free place until spring, much like dahlias.
Where winters are mild, the plants often stay green and just slow down. Old stems can be tidied up in late winter before new growth starts. The good news is you don’t have to baby them forever. Once settled, alstroemeria are quite resilient.
Harvesting for Cut Flowers
One of the joys of growing alstroemeria is filling your home with fresh flowers. Harvest stems when the first few buds are opening. Pull the stem from the base rather than cutting. This triggers more shoots from below ground.
Strip off lower leaves and place the stems in water right away. They can last up to two weeks in a vase. Change the water every couple of days and snip the ends for maximum life. It’s like having a florist’s shop right outside your door.
Common Questions
Do alstroemeria shed a lot?
They drop petals as blooms age, but it’s light and easy to tidy. Most of the plant’s foliage stays put until winter dieback.
Are they poisonous?
Alstroemeria can irritate skin in some people. Wear gloves when handling if you’re sensitive.
Can they grow in pots?
Yes. Use a large container with rich, free-draining soil. Water and feed regularly. Container plants may need dividing more often.
How long before they bloom?
Plants usually flower in their second year and get better each season after.
Do they need staking?
In rich soil they can get tall. A simple ring support or bamboo stakes keep stems upright if they flop.
My Own Alstroemeria Story
A few summers ago I planted a row of alstroemeria along the edge of my vegetable patch, thinking they’d add a bit of colour. That season turned into a running joke with my neighbours because the flowers ended up outshining my cabbages. People stopped at the fence to ask what they were and if they were hard to grow. I’d tell them, “They’re like that quiet neighbour who turns out to be a brilliant cook. Give them a chance and they’ll surprise you.”
By midseason I was cutting armfuls for the farmers market. They sold out faster than my beans. That’s when I realised how rewarding these plants can be for anyone with a bit of space and patience.
Bringing It All Together
Alstroemeria aren’t difficult once you understand their rhythm. Good soil, the right planting depth, steady moisture, a balanced feed, pulling rather than cutting stems, and dividing clumps every few years will keep them happy. They’ll give you months of flowers without much fuss and only a light sprinkle of fallen petals.
I still get a buzz each spring when the first shoots poke up. It’s a sign that another season of colour is on the way. If you’ve been wondering whether to plant them, consider this your gentle nudge. The sooner you start, the sooner you’ll be pulling buckets of blooms for yourself and friends.
