AdewebsIf you’ve ever walked past a row of beans on a summer morning and heard the buzzing of bees between the leaves, you’ll know there’s something downright calming about growing your own legumes. Lima beans and butter beans may not be the flashiest crops out there, but they’re hearty, productive, and versatile. Folks in the US, the UK, and other tier-1 countries are starting to see them not just as a southern staple but as a tasty, easy-to-grow addition to backyard gardens. You might be wondering: are they messy, do they shed leaves everywhere, and are they worth the trouble? Those were the same questions I had when I first planted my rows of limas behind the barn.
When I began my first season with lima beans, I made all the rookie mistakes. I sowed them too close together, watered them like they were thirsty tomatoes, and didn’t think about trellising at all. Guess what? They taught me patience. Over time, I figured out how far apart to plant bush lima beans, how to keep the soil warm enough, and why some plants sulked while others thrived. It’s like raising kids or chickens – you learn the quirks and the rhythm, and suddenly you’re harvesting bowls of beans you can shell with your family in the evening.
This guide is for anyone who’s thought, “I’d love to grow my own butter beans but I don’t know where to start.” Maybe you’ve got a small garden in the suburbs or a bit of acreage out back. Either way, I’ll walk you through soil prep, sowing, watering, common mistakes, and even some frequently asked questions. By the end you’ll have a good handle on how to grow lima beans without fuss – and you’ll know if they “shed” or make any kind of mess that would put you off.
Understanding Lima and Butter Beans
Lima beans and butter beans are essentially the same plant – Phaseolus lunatus – but the names change depending on region and stage of harvest. In the US South you’ll often hear “butter beans” for the larger, creamy types. In many UK garden shops, you’ll see packets labeled simply “lima beans.” Regardless of what you call them, the growing requirements are almost identical. They like warmth, consistent moisture but not soggy feet, and space to stretch.
There are two main types: bush and pole. Bush limas stay compact and don’t need support, making them ideal for raised beds or small gardens. Pole limas climb like peas and give you a vertical harvest if you’ve got trellis or poles. Each has its fans. When I first started, I mixed them in the same bed just to see which would do better. The bush limas gave me an early harvest, while the pole types carried me into fall.
If you’re curious about shedding, lima beans don’t drop messy leaves like some ornamental plants. They’re pretty tidy except at the very end of the season when the vines dry up. For most of the summer they stay green and attractive.
Preparing the Soil
Before you poke a single seed in the ground, take a minute to think about your soil. These beans like fertile, well-drained ground with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. I till in compost or well-rotted manure in spring. Some folks ask if you should fertilize heavily. I go light. Beans fix their own nitrogen, so a heavy nitrogen fertilizer will just make them grow leaves instead of pods.
The soil temperature matters more than anything. Lima beans sulk in cold ground. I don’t even think about sowing until the soil is consistently 65°F (18°C) or warmer. In the UK, that often means waiting until late May or even early June. In the US South, you can start much earlier. Planting into cold soil is the surest way to watch seeds rot instead of sprout.
Planting Seeds
Here’s where it gets fun. For bush varieties, sow seeds about 1 to 1.5 inches deep. The big question everyone asks – “bush lima how far apart to plant bush lima beans?” – deserves a straight answer. I plant them 4 inches apart within rows and keep rows about 18 to 24 inches apart. That gives them breathing room for airflow and easier picking.
For pole varieties, I sow the seeds 4 to 6 inches apart at the base of a trellis or pole teepee. As they sprout, they’ll grab hold and climb. You can plant a few extra seeds and thin later if needed. A good soaking after planting helps settle the soil, but don’t drown them.
Watering and Mulching
Beans like consistent moisture, especially when flowering and setting pods. Dry spells at that stage can make the pods tough or even drop the blossoms. I aim for about an inch of water per week, either from rain or irrigation. Mulch helps hold moisture and keep weeds down. I use straw or shredded leaves. It also keeps the soil cooler and reduces splash, which means fewer disease problems.
One mistake I made early on was overhead watering late in the day. The foliage stayed wet overnight, and before I knew it I had leaf spots. Water at the base in the morning if you can.
Supporting Pole Beans
If you’re growing pole limas, give them something sturdy. I’ve used cattle panels, bamboo teepees, and even old fence posts strung with twine. They’ll climb six to eight feet if you let them. The higher they climb, the more they produce. Bush types don’t need this support, which is why many beginners start with them.
Feeding and Care During the Season
As the plants grow, keep the weeds at bay. A shallow hoe or hand weeding works. Once they’re established, their canopy shades out most weeds. I don’t fertilize much during the season except for a light side dressing of compost mid-summer. Heavy feeding can actually reduce yields.
If you see yellowing leaves at the bottom late in the season, that’s usually normal aging. If it happens early and spreads upward, check your watering and look for pests like aphids or spider mites.
Pests and Problems
Common pests on limas include aphids, bean beetles, and occasionally slugs on young seedlings. A strong blast of water can knock aphids off. Ladybugs help too. For beetles, I pick them off or use row covers early in the season.
Diseases like anthracnose or downy mildew show up in cool, wet conditions. Spacing plants properly and watering at the base helps prevent them. Rotate your crops each year so you’re not planting beans in the same spot as last season.
Harvesting Lima and Butter Beans
Now for the reward. Bush types are usually ready 60 to 75 days after planting. Pole types can take 80 to 90 days but produce longer. You can pick pods green for fresh eating or wait until they’re dry for storage.
For fresh “butter beans,” pick the pods when plump but still green. They shell easily and cook up creamy. For dry limas, let the pods turn brown and rattle. Pull up the whole plant and hang to finish drying if frost threatens.
I like to harvest a little at a time, sitting on the porch in the evening shelling beans into a bowl. It’s a quiet, satisfying task.
Saving Seeds for Next Year
If you’ve found a variety you love, saving seed is simple. Let a few plants mature fully and dry down. Pick the dry pods, shell them, and store the beans in a cool, dry place. They’ll keep for years if sealed properly.
Companion Planting
Lima beans do well with corn, cucumbers, and squash – the old three sisters approach. Avoid planting them next to onions or garlic which can stunt growth. Some gardeners plant marigolds nearby to deter pests.
Do Lima and Butter Beans Shed or Make a Mess?
This question comes up more than you’d think. Lima and butter beans are tidy growers. They don’t drop messy flowers or sticky sap. The only time you’ll see leaves fall is at the end of the season when the plant naturally dries down. Even then, it’s not excessive. If you’re worried about keeping your garden neat, limas won’t give you trouble.
FAQs
Are lima beans perennials?
No, they’re annuals. You’ll need to replant each year.
How far apart to plant bush lima beans?
About 4 inches apart within rows and rows spaced 18 to 24 inches apart.
Can I grow them in containers?
Bush types can do well in large containers, at least 12 inches deep. Use a good potting mix and keep them watered.
Do they need a lot of fertilizer?
Not much. They fix their own nitrogen. Too much fertilizer means more leaves and fewer pods.
Will deer eat lima beans?
They can, especially young plants. A simple fence or netting helps.
Storing and Using Your Harvest
Fresh butter beans are wonderful in soups, stews, and succotash. They freeze well too. Blanch for a few minutes, cool, and pack into freezer bags. Dry beans store for months in jars or sealed buckets.
A Relatable Scenario
Last summer, a friend of mine from Devon, UK, came to visit my farm in Virginia. He’d never grown limas before. We walked the rows, and he pointed at my pole beans climbing high up the trellis. “Looks like something out of Jack and the Beanstalk,” he said with a laugh. We picked a handful, shelled them right there, and he tasted his first fresh butter bean. “Why don’t we grow these back home?” he asked. By the time he left, he’d stuffed his suitcase with seed packets. That’s how easy it is to fall in love with this crop.
Wrapping Up
Growing lima and butter beans is a simple pleasure. You don’t need fancy tools or endless time. Just warm soil, a bit of space, and a willingness to learn as you go. They reward you with generous harvests and the satisfaction of producing your own food.
If you’re in the US, UK, or anywhere else with a decent growing season, give them a try. Start with bush types if you’re short on space or time. Try pole types if you want a season-long harvest. Once you’ve cracked the code on spacing, watering, and picking, you’ll wonder why you didn’t plant them sooner.
I still get a kick out of sitting with a bucket of beans at the end of the day, shelling while the sun goes down. It’s the kind of slow, steady reward that keeps me farming. Maybe it’s time you tried your hand at lima and butter beans too – what’s holding you back?
